The title of my
piece could equally have just as easily applied to my school report as
my meanderings across the globe.
Where to start? I can boast that amongst my ancestors of a century or
more ago, were industrialists like my great great great uncle
William
Barningham, an iron and steel magnate, who was born in
Arkengarthdale, North Yorkshire in 1825, one of eleven children. He was
a self-made man. He ended up, in his Darlington and Pendleton foundries,
producing railway lines for the fledgling railways of North America and
the Empire. He was the first man to own and use a Bessemer converter in
England, was one of the richest men in Britain and, reputedly, a
thorough going, down-to-earth alcoholic with a vile temper. His obituary
finished:
William Barningham died as he had
lived, a disappointed, exacting, unlovable man;
and those who inherit his gains have little cause to revere his
memory
So money isn’t everything.
My father, my two uncles and my aunt, were all born in the same public
house,
The Red Lion, Langthwaite Arkengarthdale in North
Yorkshire:
This probably taken on the only two
days in the year when it wasn’t raining or snowing.
Alas none of his wealth ever trickled down to our side of the family. We
did seem to have a talent for global travel way back then. Three of our
lot went to America in the late 1840s, two into railways from the
William Barningham foundries and one into lead mining. There is a
Barningham Road in Richmond Virginia, where there was a steel rail
stockyard. Nathanial Barningham, then living in Swaledale, was deported
to Australia in 1843 - for sheep rustling.
My father escaped Arkengarthdale at seventeen, almost a century later in
1936. He joined the Royal Marines. On 10 May 1940 he had been on the
raiding party which invaded Iceland, the same day that Guderian’s
panzers were breaking through the French at Sedan. He sailed to Dakar on
the
Ark Royal and disembarked at Gibraltar two days before she
was sunk. He trained on Landing Craft and was a Landing Craft Coxswain
on D-Day. He went on the Reserve in 1947 and married my mother. She had
just come back from Germany, having served in 21 Army Group and on the
post-war Control Commission.
So where did my inclination for travel start? I was born in St Stephen’s
Hospital Chelsea London, on 7th October 1948. When I was a year old my
father was recalled to the Marines for the Malaya Emergency, but instead
wound up in Korea in 41 Commando. My mother and I lived in a third floor
flat at No 1 Great Cumberland Place, overlooking the Marble Arch. My
mother was the deputy manageress of the Euston Tavern (now called
O’Neill's) opposite King’s Cross Station.
No 1 Great Cumberland Place
I am told that at two years old, in the summer of 1951, my cot was up
against the open window. I had crawled out onto the window ledge, fifty
feet up. The Fire Brigade arrived with the Police, before my poor mother
had discovered my penchant for travel at altitude. I think she was on
sedatives for a week. Were it not for an alert passer-by and the London
Fire Brigade, my travelling inclination, would have ended right there.
The Bermuda Triangle is the mysterious phenomenon, famous through the
ages, for all manner of men and materials vanishing into oblivion. The
Barningham Triangle, is much more simple. They all seem to have vanished
into pubs after service in the Marines, Army, or the police.
Thus when my father returned from Korea in 1952, he and my mother,
following the pull of the family gene defect, vanished into the pub
trade, first as manager of
The Falcon in Clapham, and then as
tenant in
The Geldart in Cambridge, a Tollymache pub
opposite the Co-op dairy.
The Falcon, Clapham, London |
The Geldart, Sleaford St, Cambridge |
At the age of six, I attended the Shrubbery School on Hills Road,
cycling across town through the traffic in all weathers. Quite normal in
my day, but I wonder what British 'elf 'n shafety' would make of
that, with mummy’s little dears of today wrapped up and strapped in to
mummy’s recreation vehicle.
From crawling on to elevated ledges at two, I graduated at the age of
seven to scaling the scaffolding on Cambridge building sites. Ever
onwards and upwards. At the Shrubbery, boys' penknives were inspected by
the sports master, to make sure we kept them clean and sharp for peeling
oranges and trimming bits of wood. I also presumed that he didn’t want
me to stab anybody with a dirty blunt knife. Where I grew up, in the
back streets of Cambridge, a penknife and a bike were essentials for a
boy. Owning a watch, even one with Micky Mouse and Big Ears on it,
usually meant your parents were comfortably well off.
It was at that age that I began to take notice of all the aeroplanes in
the sky, around Cambridge. The father of a school friend was based at
Bassingbourn, an RAF navigator on a Canberra B6s. I often stopped over
at his place in the Officer’s Married Quarters at weekends while at
junior school, spending my time on the end of the runway with a pair of
binoculars that my mother had looted from Germany. Probably time better
spent than climbing 70 feet up the scaffolding of the new Co-op bakery
chimney.
I passed my 11+ and for my sins wound up here at Soham, where the next
five years would prove that, at the time, I had little academic
inclination. Travelling daily from Cambridge I developed a pathological
hatred of buses. My mother was a devout Christian, my father not so
much. I was packed off to Sunday School at St Barnabas Church on Mill
Road. I really, really, hated it. I was, by the age of eleven, quite
capable of my own interpretation of the scriptures. I decided on one
sunny day to go for a bike ride instead. Armed with the binoculars,and
an OS 1 inch map, I cycled to RAF Waterbeach to observe the Hawker
Hunters based there.
It was six weeks before I was rumbled. My mother had assumed that after
Sunday School I had gone round to a friend's place in Mawson Road. His
mother said she hadn’t seen me. I had managed to visit RAF Waterbeach
once, RAF Oakington once, RAF Duxford once and Marshall’s Airport three
times. I handed back the money my mother had given to me for the
collection and nothing else was said. I had learned how to read a map.
I joined the Air Training Corps at thirteen and a half and developed
into an air force mad Air Cadet. I attended my first summer camp in the
summer of 1963 at RAF Marham, then a V-Bomber base operating Valiants.
104 (Cambridge) ATC Squadron Summer Camp, RAF Marham, August
1963.
Mike Barningham 2nd row up, extreme left.
104 City of
Cambridge Squadron was a very fortunate squadron. We had the
full support of Sir Archibald Marshall. No.5 Air Experience Flight and
the University Air Squadron were based at Marshall’s, a couple of
hundred yards from the Squadron HQ on Newmarket Road. With Training
Command at RAF Oakington, operating Varsity transport trainers, and ten
or eleven other operating RAF stations within a thirty mile radius of
Cambridge, opportunities for visits came thick and fast.
More and yet more ATC and the summer of 1964 saw me on Annual
Inspection, with a mention in the
Cambridge News.
There were four Soham Grammarians at our 1964 Summer Camp at RAF
Finningley, another V Bomber base operating the Vulcans of 617 Squadron:
The four Soham Grammarians: Mike Barningham (back row, extreme
left); Charles Holleyman (back row, 4th from left);
Mark Taylor (back row, 5th from right); John Shelley
(back row, 2nd from right)
As Captain Speed and Captain Scott will possibly recall I paraded with
the SGS Army Cadet Force, in Air Cadet uniform, with Mark Taylor, John
Shelley, Lawrence Arthur and Charles Holleyman, who I had recruited to
the ATC. Brian Callan, the Science Lab technician who held an RAFVR(T)
Commission in the Downham Market ATC Squadron, also mucked up the khaki
ranks by parading in air force blue. He ran the rifle range.
I reached the rank of Cadet Sergeant at sixteen, resplendent with Senior
Cadet and Marksman badges, complete with solo Glider Pilot Wings gained
on course at RAF Halton. I had amassed a total of 62 flying hours on
Chipmunk T Mk 10s of No.5 Air Experience Flight and the University Air
Squadron, both at Marshalls Cambridge - and in the Navigator seat of
Varsity transport trainers based at RAF Oakington. I attended camps at
RAF Marham, Finningley and Ternhill. I also did the ATC Outward Bound
course at Keswick
My week was very busy. At six thirty each morning except Saturdays, I
cleared the empties, filled the shelves, wiped the tables and cleaned
the ash trays in my dad’s pub for four shillings pocket money each week.
On Wednesday evenings I paraded at the Squadron HQ.
On Thursday evenings, I cycled nine miles to RAF Oakington to hang
around for an opportunity to fly with RAF Training Command.
On Fridays I paraded in ATC uniform with the SGS Army Cadets.
On Saturdays, I was up at four and on a milk float, heading for Histon,
Cottenham and Rampton with a Co-op milkman who wanted to finish early on
Saturdays. He took me on to help deliver milk for half a crown for the
morning. I was leaping in and out of the moving open door milk truck,
grabbing full milk bottles, running to the door step and returning at
the run with the empties. Modern Health & Safety would probably go
into cardiac arrest. By noon, I was hanging around 5 AEF hut at
Marshalls in ATC uniform, or the University Air Squadron line office.
Sunday morning I paraded at Squadron HQ and Sunday afternoon I was back
at Marshalls, hanging around for an opportunity to fly. Bill Ison, of
the Tiger Group at Marshalls, who owned the cycle shop in Chesterton,
was a customer in the pub, and I flew in a Tiger Moth on three
occasions. I also passed ACF Certificate A Part I and II, with the SGS
ACF.
I did manage to give grammar school my full attention on Mondays and
Tuesdays, but only if nothing more important was happening. I paid
heavily for the lost attention to school work later. I think that of my
academic achievements at Soham, it could easily have been written of me
"Sets himself ever lower standards, which he consistently fails to
achieve."
Form 5T/Alpha Summer
1965 -
more
photos
5T photo top L-R: Mark Taylor - Colin Blackwell - Philip Rowe - Andrew
Crane - John Seaton - Lawrence Arthur
upper middle: David Camps - Richard Butler - William Wheeler - Roger
Creek (partially obscured) - John Bailey
lower middle: Geoff Griggs - Michael Barningham
front : Michael Murfitt - Ian Middleton - Tom Gray
image: taken by Alan Bray
A few months after my ‘O’ Levels, we moved to
The King’s Arms Hotel
in Ivybridge, Devon. It is now renamed
The Exchange and owned by
a plastic pub chain, wiping out three hundred years of history in their
race to the bottom.
formerly The Kings Arms, Ivybridge, Devon
At the time, not being remotely interested in staying at school and
having neither inclination nor natural talent for anything of use in
civilian life, I started applications for the armed forces.
To my disappointment, the Air Force didn’t want me in any capacity that
I wanted them. I didn’t at the time see myself in the Navy.
I passed the War Office Board for the Army and was offered a limited
service commission, but that would have meant going back to school at
the Army School of Education at Beaconsfield to complete ‘A’ Levels and
a commission through Mons Officer Cadet School. At that time
I didn’t want any more school.
I passed the Admiralty Interview Board for a Commission in the Royal
Marines, which only required five GCE ‘O’ Levels, presumably because
nobody bright enough to pass A levels or sane enough to realise the many
opportunities for serious injury, or worse, would consider the Marines
as a career. However I did not pass high enough on the list of
qualifying candidates for a place on the next Young Officer Entry. So I
enlisted. Green Beret first, Commission later, with my eye on aviation.
Thus I joined 867 Squad of the Royal Marines - proving I wasn’t Air
Force Mad, just mad. My life insurance premiums went up - my mother was
back on sedatives. I told her to look on the bright side - after
rejection by the RAF, I had seriously considered the Foreign Legion and
the US Army.
Down to Deal in Kent, where I signed on and got the Queen’s Shilling,
along with DMS boots, puttees, denims, a scrub belt and a Navy Beret,
with an RM Cap Badge, plus a set of tin mess tins. I was ‘Introduced’ to
one Sergeant R Davis RM. It wasn’t the bolt through the neck or the zip
up the back of the head (that the collar, tie and green beret did little
to conceal) that told me that I might have a problem if I upset him -
and he probably got upset very easily. It was those piercing, laser
eyes. His gaze was like something out of a very grisly Neanderthal
science fiction movie. They could see right through you - and the man
standing behind you. They also worked simultaneously out of the back of
his head. The squad loosely assembled for the first group photo.
Royal Marines 867 Squad, April 1967: Mike Barningham front row, 3rd
from left
Thirty three started. How many would finish with the 867, if at all? The
smiles were very quickly wiped off our faces. The object of the first
ten weeks training at Deal was to get you physically fit and mentally
conditioned for what was to come, or back-squadded - or out. The process
involved killing any lingering civilian characteristics and
extinguishing any thoughts of a glamorous image. Life was harsh. PT in
the Gymnasium every day except Sunday. Pull-ups, sit-ups, rope ascent to
the roof, and running as a squad - drill followed by more drill. Weapons
training, the range, kit musters, bivouacking, yomping up to Cold Blow
field. Break camp, make camp. The pace increased as the weeks passed.
Six weeks in, I got into sailing at Deal and crewed one of the Corps'
yachts, the
Sarie Marais, from Dover to Boulogne over a long
weekend. I had phoned my parents and let them know I was sailing to
France. As things turned out I probably should not have done that. With
the Royal Naval Education Branch Lieutenant Commander as skipper, seven
of us had sailed out of Dover Harbour for a night crossing on the
Thursday evening, tied up alongside amongst the Boulogne fishing fleet
and proceeded ashore to immerse ourselves in French culture.
The Colonel of the Depot, H. Maude, had sailed over in his own yacht
with his wife, a day behind us. He tied up alongside the Corps yacht and
came aboard, to find us all seriously four sheets to the wind after a
liquid French cultural experience still very much in progress. “I think
it is time that you started back for Dover.”
It was not a hint, or a birthday greeting, it was an order. We slipped
and followed the Colonel and his lady out of the harbour. The sea was
cutting up rough and it was night, the radio had failed. The skipper
wore quite thick glasses. He decided to do the sensible thing. Without
radar or radio, in bad weather, with an inexperienced crew and with oil
tankers plying the Channel at ninety degrees to our course, we went
about, put back into Boulogne, tied up alongside and went back on to the
French culture to wait for a break in the weather.
The Colonel carried on, oblivious of our change of course, arrived in
Dover. He waited ... and waited ... and waited. No
Sarie Marais.
He couldn’t raise her on the radio. He reported to the Harbour Master,
who sent out a shipping alert. It made the national press, ‘Marines lost
at sea.’ My mother saw it and was back on tranquillisers. The Boulogne
Triangle was not unlike the Barningham Triangle - we weren’t lost, we
had just vanished into a French pub. When we got back the following day
the Colonel was not at all amused. The Lt Commander took all the flak.
The remainder of my time at Deal passed without incident. We had managed
to complete our seamanship training at HMS Bellerophon, Whale Island in
Portsmouth, living aboard a World War II Corvette, the
Volage,
with mess facilities on board
HMS Belfast (these days moored in
the Thames). We were becoming bilingual, picking up 'jack speak' - where
toilets were the heads, the padre was the sky pilot and RM officers were
pigs.
After seventeen gruelling weeks 867 Squad marched through Deal to the
station, to proceed to Infantry Training Centre Royal Marines Lympstone.
My sixth home. We had lost some on the way and picked up some
back-squadded individuals, including two who the judge had given the
option of five years in jail or nine years in the Corps. They were fast
coming round to regretting their decision.
867 Squad Royal Marines August 1967 - 28 of the originals left
We disembarked at Lympstone station and were met by one Sergeant
MacMillan, otherwise known as the
Poisoned Dwarf. Sergeant Davis
was a pussycat compared to MacMillan.
The object of B group training, more accurately described as violent
physical abuse, was to see if they could make any of us crack. The
secret here was a warped sense of humour. You would always mock the
afflicted, sympathy was for civilians. They were relentless and life
became tougher and tougher. We spent a lot of time on Woodbury Common,
though why they called it a Common I will never know. Although there
were no fences, civilians never went near the place. It was a plantation
of thorn bushes, specially designed, cultivated and arranged to
guarantee penetration of combat gear no matter in which direction you
crawled.
You slept whenever you could, you did not know when the chance would
come again. It rained nearly incessantly that year, to magnify the
discomfort. We were perpetually saturated. If there was a dry day, they
would find a manky stream for us to crawl through. When we weren’t in
the field there was the assault course, the gym, followed by more night
exercises on Exmoor and Woodbury Common, and more weapons training. A
few more 867s dropped out and we picked up a couple more back-squadders.
We went to RM Hamworthy in Dorset for Small Boat and Landing Craft
training and to Jennycliff in Plymouth for Cliff Assault Training.
A marine in training would burn 3,500 plus calories per day. Food is
nothing but fuel. You never threw food away, you had to carry it and
throwing it away would mean you had carried it for nothing. The training
seemed to go on without end, but it did end after thirty four weeks with
the four Commando tests and Passing Out parade.On the first three tests
you carried twenty four pounds of equipment and a rifle. All tests were
completed the same week:
- The first was an Endurance Course comprising nearly dry tunnels,
a full immersion water tunnel and a four mile run sopping wet down
to Lympstone.
- The second, a nine mile speed march in ninety minutes, was
followed by immediate scored rifle range. Even if you completed the
speed march in time, if you couldn’t shoot straight at the end of it
you would fail.
- The next day, the third test, a combination of the Tarzan and
Assault courses, with 13 minutes to complete it. You go flat out,
any hesitation and you would fail.
- The next day the killer thirty mile march, carrying 40 pounds of
kit, plus a rifle. That year an outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease
on Dartmoor meant that the thirty miler would take place on the
roads. So the impact of running and speed marching thirty miles, in
under eight hours, with full marching order, without the cushioning
effect of soft ground, meant that everybody who finished did so with
a green beret on top of the head and blisters on the feet. Two
didn’t finish.
The Royal Marine cure for blisters was a week of intense parade ground
drill in ammunition boots, preparing for the Pass Out parade. In
December 1967, during that last week of training, it snowed. The Squad
photo was like a very grotesque Christmas Card which onlookers may have
found funny. We didn’t. The 867 had come through with twenty-one of the
originals. This was a better survival rate than average. Two had been
discharged at Deal. Fortunately, we had had no suicides, nobody drowned
in the water tunnel or under the ramp of a landing craft, nobody fell
off Jennycliff and nobody deserted.
867 Squad Royal Marines December 1967 - 21 of the originals left
I was a Candidate in Waiting for a commission from the day I got my
green hat. But first, I was to sample the delights of a tropical
paradise, when my name went up on orders for a draft to 40 Commando in
the Far East. I was thinking Chinese Birds and WRAFs, Wrens and WRACs,
but not necessarily in that order. Was I in for a shock.
I gleefully ascended the boarding steps of the British Eagle Britannia,
a four engine turbo-prop, departing Heathrow. We refuelled at Istanbul
and Bombay (Mumbai), landing at Paya Lebar in Singapore. I had reached
journey’s end and arrived in the land of the midnight fun. Or so I
thought. Still jet lagged, I was rushed to Sembawang airfield, half
asleep and clattering around in the back of a three ton truck. I was
greeted by an irritated storeman with: "We are rear party and you are
not. The unit is up country. You leave tomorrow, at 0700. You are
joining C Company."
Issued with a Self Loading Rifle, Machete and the usual Olive Green
fashion array which was topped off with a floppy hat, I stood
resplendent in the British stores speciality of canvas and crepe
self-dissolving jungle boots. Unlike Nancy Sinatra, we found out the
hard way that these boots weren’t made for walking. In fairness the
canvas never rotted, there wasn’t time for it to rot. The glue dissolved
in warm water. Not surprisingly in the jungle (or Ulu) there was rather
a lot of it.
Not the Kuching Hilton
The sheer luxury of the Kuching Hilton was not for me. I joined 5
Section, 8 Troop, C Company 40 Commando Royal Marines. Amongst the flora
and fauna I was welcomed by my section corporal. Make yourself at home
is what I thought he said. What he really said was make yourself a home.
I was paired off with the lead scout, who carried a much coveted 5.56 mm
AR15 Armalite rifle which was fully automatic, rather than the 7.62 mm
SLR which was not and weighed twice as much. Weight in the jungle was
your enemy, we even cut most of the handle off our tooth brushes to
reduce weight.
I made the fatal error of asking how I could get an Armalite. The troop
sergeant overheard and asked if I really wanted to swop my SLR for
another weapon. “Ooh yes please.” Straight in it. They took my SLR and
handed me the Section’s General Purpose Machine Gun, three times the
weight of an SLR. The only consolation was that I was guaranteed to hit
something if I ever had the misfortune to use it. As I was a Candidate
in Waiting for a Commission Sergeant Frank Gilhooley took perverse
pleasure in giving me the full benefit of his repertoire of undiluted
hatred of officers, actual and potential.
Home is where you make it
This was home on and off for five weeks when I was not out on armed
nature walks strolling through the Ulu, dissolving British jungle boots.
I had been issued with Air Ministry Pamphlet 214, written by an expert,
to alert me to the dangers of the jungle. One paragraph was devoted to
what you did if confronted by an elephant advancing on you - “Run
downhill.” So there I am waist-deep in water in the middle of a rice
paddy, thirty pounds of GPMG plus ammo slung round my neck, this big
grey thing is getting bigger and I am supposed to look for a hill to run
down. The Navy had gained a new item in jack speak when Chad Valley came
out with games for children which didn’t do what it said on the box.
Something that didn’t work became Chad.
The grief felt after the loss of a pet can be every bit as painful as
that following the death of a human, so why didn’t we take it so
seriously in the Marines?
It really depends on the pet. Here is one reason:
I did managed to ‘procure’ a pair of stitched Australian jungle boots
which were fit for purpose, just in time to no longer require them as we
embarked on the Commando Carrier
Albion to sail off to the Gulf
of Aden where DMS boots would be the order of the day. Harold Wilson had
decided to cut the cost of us being in Aden from £60 million a year to
£12 million. I completely failed to see why we were paying anything at
all as they had moved into the Russian sphere of influence, but there
were still Europeans left in Aden and we were being sent to stand by to
get them out if things got nasty.
40 Commando embarked on HMS Albion for the Gulf of Aden,
March 1968
Fortunately peace and tranquillity prevailed and we sailed to Mombasa, a
place with every disease known to man and quite a lot that were not,
then to RAF Gan and back to the Far East and Singapore.
Continual exercises in the Malayan jungle became the norm, until we
sailed on the Landing Ship Logistic
Sir Geraint to Australia,
via the Timor Sea and New Guinea, where we did a nine mile speed march
at 95 in the shade. The locals thought we were crazy. Three cases of
heat stroke proved that they were right.
C Coy 40 Commando 9 mile speed march Port Moresby, New Guinea.
October 1968
On to Australia, for exercise CORAL SANDS, a huge SEATO affair,
involving the armed forces of four countries. 40 Commando were landed at
Shoalwater Bay near Rockhampton. We had been warned that Australia had
more crawling nasties than everywhere else on the planet put together.
We were warned to watch out for the snakes particularly the Coastal
Taipan - which if you were bitten by one, without the antidote it would
prove fatal. The problem was that there were one hundred and four known
variants.
Friendly Queensland local. Coastal Taipan come to say hullo.
We were told that if bitten you must kill the snake and bring it back,
so they could administer the correct serum! We were also told that we
had about two hours to get medical attention. I saw two Taipans and a
King Brown, which was OK. It was the ones that you didn’t see that would
be the problem.
We chased enemies simulated by 800 Gurkhas all over the bush. Over the
following week I think we caught one. Then on to the important part of
the exercise. Shore leave in Brisbane.
The Aussies threw the town open to us and by and large, we behaved
ourselves. The girls, the pubs and the climate were great. Several
marriages were to occur as a direct result of our run ashore in
Brisbane. How different from Britain, where the sign ‘NO SOLDIERS OR
DOGS,’ was sported unchallenged in some pubs. I was getting the first
glimmer of where I probably wanted to go when I left the Corps. When we
sailed for Singapore, a dozen marines were AWOL. Most were arrested and
returned, but I think a couple of them are still missing. Many British
ex-service personnel were to find a home in Australia.
After CORAL SANDS I applied for and got transfer to the Air Troop and
trained as an Army Air Corps Observer, picking up para wings on the way.
We were operating Sioux helicopters, a
Korean War relic:
|
Dieppe Flight Air Troop 40 Commando RM South China Sea -
loosely known by the Chinese locals as Deep Fright |
The Air Troops of 40 and 42 Commando, HQ 3 Commando Brigade and 95
Commando Light Regiment Royal Artillery were combined to form the Third
Commando Brigade Air Squadron. I spent a year with them and learned a
great deal. It certainly beat yomping through the Ulu, dissolving
British jungle boots. I could see the reasoning behind the late, great,
Peter Ustinov's comment when he was called up for war service. He was
asked why he wanted to join the Tank Corps - he said if he had to go
into battle, he wanted to do it sitting down.
In July 1969 I was seconded with an Army Air Corps unit to S(h)ek Kong
Airstrip in the New Territories. When I arrived back in Singapore my
tour was over and I was posted back to the UK.
When I got back to England in September 1969, I had been recommended for
a Commission. I opted for aviation and passed Aircrew aptitude tests at
the Officer and Aircrew Selection Centre at RAF Biggin Hill. In early
1970 I attended an officers'
knife and fork course. It was for
uncouth other ranks like me, possessing all the grace and charm of the
Army of Anubis. We learned from Group Captain Stradling’s book,
Mess
Etiquette, that it was the bread knife that went on the extreme
right, not the bottle opener.
My mother passed away with cancer, in April 1970, while I was on the
Officers' Course.
Pacific Glory touched bottom off the Isle of Wight after
collision with the Allegro, 23rd October 1970
An incident at sea. In the early morning of 23rd October 1970 I was in
Portsmouth and saw a fire at sea and a huge smoke plume. I headed
for the Portsmouth Flying Club with a borrowed camera. I got there just
in time to join the CFI and a reporter from the
Telegraph. It
was the
Pacific
Glory burning off the Isle of Wight following an
explosion after collision with the
Allegro, another tanker.
Thirteen of the crew died in the explosion.
I had looked forward to a military flying career. I had picked up my
civilian flying licence on the way. Alas it was not to be. Impending
withdrawal East of Suez saw immediate cut-backs and in early 1971 I
found myself permanently back on the ground. There was talk that the
Royal Marines would be disbanded, doing wonders for morale and
recruitment. The RAF still didn’t want me. They too were heavily cutting
back. The Royal Marines meantime were reinventing themselves, with a
snow warfare role. I did not relish continuing with the prospect of the
relentless Belfast triangle of Northern Ireland, Norway, Scotland.
Rotating through 41, 42, 45 and 40 Commandos I saw promotion prospects
as severely limited. At best I would only ever finish up as a special
duties Lieutenant in a recruiting office after years of shuffling
logistics.
It was time to assess my situation. If I was not going for a full career
in the Marines, it was better to leave sooner rather than later. I had
started to think what for me a year earlier would have been unthinkable,
leaving the service. For civilian career prospects, I realised I would
be playing catch-up with my civilian counterparts. I had started intense
study on an A Level course in Pure & Applied Maths, through the RN
Education Officer and correspondence with Highbury Technical College
Portsmouth. I passed my A Level in 1972 and decided to leave at the end
of that year. In my case it was the right thing to do. I had again been
told that there were no prospects of getting back into flying. I was not
going to be happy doing anything else in the service.
After six years, I had walked away with an A Level and a civilian flying
licence. I was still in one piece and very fit. Do I regret my time in
the service? No. I had done time in one of the toughest outfits on the
planet and had seen a lot more of the world than I ever would have done
in that period of time as a civilian. The decisions of politicians to
scrap the Fleet Carriers heavily impacted British military capabilities.
What next? My options:
Join the US Army? Out of the frying pan into the fire.
Join the Foreign Legion? Ditto and five years for a French
passport.
Join the Hong Kong Police Force? Incubating the gene defect of
the other half of the family. They were recruiting heavily in the UK,
following a corruption scandal. But I realised that there must be more
to life than strutting around in Eric Morecambe shorts and climbing in
and out of Land Rovers looking Trevor Howardish.
Australian Air Traffic Control? I had passed the interview board
and aptitude tests at Canberra House and was set to emigrate, when
Harold Wilson decided to have a difference of opinion with his
Australian counterpart over visas for Australians. The Australians
stopped all civil service recruiting from Britain just before I was due
to go. Politicians again.
The Ordnance Survey? I had an avid interest in maps and applied
for Land Surveyor. In the meantime I joined Ciba-Geigy at Duxford to
earn money to feed my flying habit, manufacturing bonded structural
aircraft component parts. While at Ciba I bumped into John Beer, Robert
Reynolds and John Holland, all Soham Grammarians who had travelled with
me on the Cambridge bus.
I was accepted by the OS to train as a Land Surveyor and left Ciba for
Southampton in May 1973. I stayed in the YMCA throughout my course, but
I ate in the pub. I did well on the Surveyor’s course and was posted to
Camelford in Cornwall in May 1974. There were three of us mapping from
air photographs and ground survey, across North Cornwall, at 1:2500
scale. I lived in digs between Boscastle and Tintagel, 300 yards from
the cliffs and overlooking the sea. I walked over every inch of a third
of North Cornwall. When we completed the North Cornwall section, we
moved the office to Holsworthy in North Devon in December 1974 and I
rented a semi-detached cottage at
Halwill
Junction, a sleepy disused railway halt closed under the
Beeching axe. They have since built a huge housing estate where Stagg’s
Wood used to be.
From Devon, I was posted in April 1975 to Cardington Aerodrome near
Bedford. I met the late Bob Monkhouse while I was surveying his property
in Eggington. In December 1975 I was again posted, this time to
Hertford. I met Sue Ryder - our office was above her charity shop in the
Arcade. Then to Harlow and on to Bishop’s Stortford ,where I met Sir
Henry Moore when surveying his property in Perry Green.
I enrolled in a part-time evening course at the Cambridge College of
Arts & Technology, going for a second A Level in Geology. I was
transferred up to Brooklands Avenue in Cambridge. I was unmarried, but
bought a house at Bar Hill, which we still own. I passed my A Level. Now
with A Level Maths and Geology, I was seriously considering reading for
a degree in Land Surveying, but had a £4,000 mortgage to consider first.
Bar Hill, 1976
In February 1977 I saw an advert in the
Daily Telegraph for a
Land Surveyor in Saudi Arabia and picked up the phone. The OS as a job
was fantastic, with flexi-time I was virtually my own boss, I worked
mostly outside, moved around, stayed very fit and met very interesting
people in the course of my work. It was a job for life, with a pension -
if I wanted it. The drawback was lousy pay, at £2,200 per annum - and at
the top of the pay scale, no prospects of advancement for decades. Dead
Men’s shoes. If I had won the football pools I would have stayed and
done the job as a hobby.
The Arabian Engineering Bureau were offering six times that, tax free,
all found, vehicle, six months on two weeks off. They were having
trouble keeping people for more than a couple of months, because the
conditions were harsh and you needed to be self-reliant in remote
places. Family separation of six months meant that married men would
avoid this contract. They preferred ex-service single personnel for
those reasons.
With sadness, I resigned from the Ordnance Survey and left for the Empty
Quarter in Rojal Province, Saudi Arabia, where I swapped my sketching
case, tape measure and Wellington Boots, for a second reading theodolite
and desert boots. My task was astro fix from the North Star for Latitude
and the Greenwich time signal and highest sun shot local time to
calculate longitude. I was to set out main monument markers for a road
and tunnel project, then set out the road centrelines and transition
curves from those monuments. I slept in the truck and drove up to 40
miles across the desert to buy water and food.
Arabian Engineering Bureau - Rojol
Province Road and Tunnel Project - Empty Quarter, Saudi Arabia -
1977
After six months I was told that I would be transferred to a housing
project on the West side of Dharan, in Eastern Province. I was to learn
a great deal about the mindset in this culture. It was a requirement of
the building permit that, before any construction took place, the
orientation of Mecca was to be established by a local cleric to ensure
that no toilets were positioned so that the rear orifice was presented
to the birthplace of Mohammed the Prophet and Islam.
I had calculated precisely the direction, on a Universal Transverse
Mercator projection. I knew exactly to degrees, minutes and seconds,
where the Grand Mosque of Mecca lay. Our wise old construction manager,
who had years of dealings in Saudi, told me to keep the information to
myself and to let the cleric ordain the direction, rather than have the
company contradict him. He arrived and pronounced the direction. He was
thirty degrees out.
The architecture of the buildings we were constructing was designed to
avoid windows facing south wherever possible, for the purpose of keeping
a minimum of direct solar radiation at midday from penetrating the
structure. The toilets ended up facing Mecca, missing the Grand Mosque
by a matter of feet. We of course said nothing.
My lucky break into the petrochemical oil and gas industries came while
I was still in Saudi. In December 1977 a colleague told me he was going
to work in Libya. They were looking for setting-out engineers on a
petrochemical contract. I gave him my CV to drop in to his new company
and he flew out. My father received a letter from Stone & Webster a
week later asking when I could come for interview.
I had been in Saudi for eleven months and was overdue for leave. I flew
back to the UK two weeks later, was interviewed and offered a contract
on £14,000 per annum, tax free, all found, with eighteen days leave
every twelve weeks. I paid off the mortgage on the house and returned to
Saudi, to resign from the Arabian Engineering Bureau. I thanked them for
the opportunities that they had given me, but stated that I wanted to
get away from roads and housing into petrochemicals, oil and gas.
Stone & Webster Engineering. Ras Lanuf Ethylene Plant,
Libya
From March 1978 I spent eighteen months at Ras Lanuf setting out large
foundation systems and aligning structural steelwork. S&W were
feeding me away from pure surveying and were giving me tasks that
suggested that I should consider going back to college to read an
engineering degree. When they released me on completion of contract I
decided that that was what I would do. Surveying was moving into
electronics and automation, requiring few skills. It proved to be a good
move.
It was while I was in Stone & Webster that I joined Expats
International, formed by a former employee of S&W, Keith Edmonds. It
was one of the smartest things I ever did, it kept me in employment for
the next twenty-five years.
I returned temporarily to UK, bought another house for cash and rented
it out. Via Expats International, in October 1981 my CV came to the
notice of Technip, the French company, who were recruiting for a
refinery expansion in Qatar. They offered me US$ 24,000 per annum, all
found, a vehicle, three months on two weeks off. The French put all
other foreign companies to shame when they work abroad. Technip Village
at Umm Said, now spelt Memsaid, had a swimming pool, two yachts, tennis
and squash courts, and a canteen that had waiter-served four course
dinners with wine at every meal. The French ambassador was a regular
attender. Françoise Hardy the French folk singer and Blaster Bates
visited for entertainment.
Technip Village, Umm Said, Qatar |
Qatar General Petroleum Corporation Umm Said Refinery |
September 1982 saw me at the Polytechnic of Central London as a mature
student, driving north to Huntingdon station to catch the 125 for King’s
Cross. Ruth Madoc, the comedy soap actress, caught the same train most
days - she was a scream. £3 per day return on a student rail card,
carrying my Moulton lightweight folding bike and a fishing stool (there
were never any seats on the train). Jim Tyne my college tutor, had
designed the cradle that lifted the
Mary Rose out of the Solent.
The college had been selected by MoD (Air) on a contract to look into a
potential vibration problem on the rear rotor of the Chinook helicopters
that they were acquiring. I had opted for vibration of structures
in my third year and was in on the act, which Jim Tyne was leading.
He said that the RAF was looking for suitable candidates for commission
as engineer officers, and in conversation with them, my work had come
up. They considered I had potential. They must have been desperate for
engineers, asking me if I would be interested in joining the RAF twenty
years after they had turned me down. It was far too late for me at
thirty six, stuck on the ground and no danger of making twenty two years
for a pension by age 55. I gave them a miss.
I graduated in July 1985, put out my CV to Expats International and was
immediately offered employment by Brown & Root, returning to Ras
Lanuf to sort out pre-commissioning problems, and for work on a pipeline
at Zelten south of Marsa El Breqa. The offer was £36,000 pa,
non-contributory pension scheme, vehicle, accommodation and food, ten
weeks on eighteen days off, air tickets provided. I signed the contract
on the spot and was putting my foot down occasionally to steer with,
heading for the airport.
The work was a mixture of field and design office. I stayed with Brown
& Root for three and a half years in Libya, a really good company. I
was destined to work for them again later on the Libyan Great Man Made
River Pipeline Project.
In 1986, the RAF wrote to me asking if I would reconsider. Nope, my
service days were over. I needed a job that paid real money to feed my
flying habit.
Brown & Root - Ras Lanuf Ethylene Plant, Libya |
Ras Lanuf Airfield Runway 1985-88 |
I put my CV out to Expats International and two weeks before I was
released by Brown & Root, a really interesting contract came my way.
It was with LG Mouchel & Partners, as a lead engineer on the design
team of a coal fired power station at Yue Yang in China. We would be
based in Hong Kong. It was a World Bank and British aid funded project.
Don’t laugh.
My task was to design the turbine shed and turbine support plinths, with
50 metre spans thirty metres high. It was a fast track project and I
commenced using British Codes supplemented with American Uniform
Building Code specs for Earthquake Design.
After a few weeks of crunching numbers, we jumped straight into detail
design, skipping all the usual preliminary work-up, and started sending
drawings to GEC Trafford Park, the British supplier. I received a Telex
from them asking me to hold. They would be sending me South African
Design Codes, because, I was told, the steel would be procured from
South Africa. The Codes were similar to DIN which produced heavier steel
sections than the British Codes, not clever in earthquake zones where
the whole idea is to reduce dead and live load at altitude wherever
possible. It meant a much heavier design all round and more steel
tonnage.
I later found out that GEC owned a steel plant in South Africa but in
1988 could not export profits generated in Rands without putting an
equivalent amount in hard currency back into South Africa. So British
Aid and World Bank money went to South Africa to procure steel for
China, allowing GEC to export an equivalent amount in Rand. That is one
way that aid money used to work - and probably still does.
In January 1989 the design work on Mouchell was winding down and I put
my CV out to Expats International again. Within a week, I got a telex
from an old buddy from Stone & Webster days, now working for Davy
McKee, the steel corporation, asking if I would be interested in working
in Mexico. Yes please. I also got a call via my father in UK, from
Falcon, a recruiting agency for Royal Dutch Shell in Brunei, asking if I
would be prepared to go there.
It was the toss of a coin that led me to go to Mexico.
Davy McKee 30 mm Steel Plate Mill,
Lazaro Cardenas, Michoacan, Mexico 1989-90
The contract was for £2,800 per month, tax free, and US$ 1,000 living
allowance, with a vehicle and accommodation provided. As Resident
Engineer, my job was to check and verify the sufficiency of design prior
to construction, and to agree heavy lift procedures for the 400 ton
Sparrows rigs used to locate the rolling and scarfing mill and the
overhead travelling crane beams.
It was this job that would change my life. Until I met Carmen, I was of
the opinion that marriage was an institution. While I had girlfriends on
two or three continents, I had absolutely no intentions of living in an
institution. If I wanted to go somewhere, I hopped on a plane and went.
I did not need to consult or feel guilty.
I courted her for a year, then proposed. My one year contract had
over-run and I again put my CV out through Expats International. I
received a response from a Dutch agency, asking if I would work in the
Gabon on a Shell job. I left Mexico in May 1990, flew to Holland via
Houston, was handed keys to a hire car and drove to Dusseldorf.
Mannesman Anlagenbau interviewed me, offered me an eye watering contract
on the spot, on $9000 per month, all found, drove me to Bonn (then the
West German capital) to the Gabonese Embassy for a visa, picked up
anti-malarial tablets, back to Dusseldorf to the airport, to hand in the
hire car and catch Lufthansa to Paris, then overnight with Air Gabon to
Libreville. I flew Inter Air Gabon to Port Gentil the same day, then
took a taxi to the company office. The same night, I was on a river boat
heading the sixty miles on the Dianango River for Shell Rabi Field. Less
than twenty four hours earlier I had been in Mexico finishing on another
job and saying goodbye to my fiancée. I had not visited England for
eight months.
I have to hand it to the Germans, they do not hang about on ceremony.
Mannesmann Anlagenbau: Shell Rabi Field Gathering Station &
Pipeline Project, Gabon
I was working on a pipeline and central gathering station upgrade.
President Bongo had taken the Saudi bribe money to turn the country
Muslim. His problem was that the country was fiercely French Catholic
and in late June 1990, Port Gentil revolted. The French sent in the
Marines and Paratroopers to protect the oil installations and evacuate
foreigners. I returned to Mexico to get married, collecting my father in
the UK on the way.
French Military - Evacuation from Rabi Field, Gabon, June 1990
I returned to the Gabon in September. That same month, while in my truck
on my way back from the river jetty to the camp, I had a close encounter
with a gorilla. He had loped across the laterite road right in front of
me. He stopped less than ten feet from the open window of my truck,
stared for a moment and loped off into the jungle.
The Shell Mannesman contract was completed in July 1991 and my CV had
already gone to Expats International.
Many ex-Brown & Root engineers had moved to a company called
Teknica, Libyan owned under the National Oil Corporation. In August 1991
I was asked if I would go to Tobruk via Sarajevo in Jugoslavia, to check
and sign off the designs prior to construction and go to site as Owner’s
Representative.
When I arrived in late August the situation in Jugoslavia was
deteriorating and with high inflation, the currency was devaluing by the
day. Sarajevo at that time was peaceful, but there were underlying
tensions between the Serbs in the town and the Bosnians.
Arabian Gulf Oil Company - Tobruk Refinery Expansion Project
1991-92
The Libyan manager sent me back to Sarajevo in February 1992 to check if
the steel works at Zavadovici, north of Sarajevo was still functioning.
It was not. I could see from the train that the furnaces were out. The
situation had deteriorated considerably. They had no formed plate for
fabrication and the railway bridge at Mostar leading to the port of
Ploce had been destroyed. The project proceeded with the civils and some
tank welding, but the Sarajevo company PPI, the supplier, could not
continue and by October 1992 they had effectively ceased to exist.
Teknica transferred me to a design office in Malta in December 1992 for
the Waha Oil, Faregh Field Project, where I was engaged on designing
piled support structures for gas oil separation equipment, turbo
compressors, a 60 km 20 inch gas line to Zelten and a 14 inch oil line
to Gialo.
A job came through in September 1993, as Principal Design Engineer on a
Petronas ethylene and oil jetty at Kertih, North of Kuantan on the East
coast of Malaysia for Penta Ocean of Japan. Initially based for design
at Subang Jaya, Kuala Lumpur, the client had accepted my proposal for
using 42 inch spiral weld raker piles instead of the verticals shown on
the Instructions To Bidders. There were limited envelopes for pile
driving at sea between monsoons and raker piling gave us much more
flexibility in utilising the piling barges. Calculations were based on
the 100 year period return wave. The jetty approach trestle would stand
ten metres above mean sea level, with a breakwater to be constructed by
our sub-contractor Zin Con Marine of Holland a mile offshore. The
Japanese were highly organised and the jetty was completed on time in
April 1995.
I went home to Mexico.
Penta Ocean - Petronas Ethylene Plant Marine Facilities - Kerih,
Malaysia
With my CV out again to Expats International, I was contacted by the
Dong Ah Consortium of Korea in July 1995, engaged on construction of the
Great Man Made River. They had noted my time with Brown & Root and
my previous work with large diameter pipes with Stone & Webster at
Ras Lanuf. They offered me a one year contract, to troubleshoot problems
on phase one of First Water To Benghazi.
Dong Ah Consortium - Great Man Made
River - First Water to Benghazi - Cyrenaica, Libya 1995-96
There were plenty of problems, largely associated with poor quality
control by the Koreans. I could sense that there was deep mistrust of
Dong Ah by Brown & Root, who had largely left Dong Ah to their own
devices. I established a good rapport with the Brown & Root
engineers in my time and left at the end of my contract, in August 1996,
for work with Bechtel in Saudi Arabia.
Bechtel Corporation – Saudi
ARAMCO Producing Facilities – Shaybah, Eastern Province Saudi
Arabia 1996-97
I joined Bechtel in October 1996 in Al Khobar Saudi Arabia, leading a
design team engaged on a number of Aramco minor projects, at Shabah,
Uthmaniya, Abqaiq, Ras Tanura and Jeddah. During my time with Bechtel
the Company had sponsored me to join the American Society of Civil
Engineers as a full member, going through my PE licence exam.
I had been a Member and Chartered in the Institute of Civil Engineers in
Britain. Many of us were more than disenchanted with them. Their
objective seemed to be job sharing and holding British engineer wages
below all the other professions. They had merged with the municipal
engineers. I let my membership slide, as I found them to be irrelevant
to what I was doing for a living in the Oil & Gas industry.
I was transferred to Yanbu in April 1997 as Civil & Structural
Project engineer for the two billion US$ Ibn Rushd PTA and aromatics
plant, handing over to the Mechanical Project Engineer in December 1997.
There had been heavy flooding in Tabasco, Mexico in October 1997. In
February 1998 Bechtel transferred me to their joint venture project to
do follow up restoration work on flood damaged oil and gas installations
for Petroleos de Mexico.
Montano-Bechtel Flood Initiative
Tabasco Mexico 1998-2001
My father died the following month. After my father’s funeral, I
remained working in Mexico until June 2001 without visiting Britain. I
completely missed all the hoo-ha over the Millennium Bug. I had done a
US Commercial Truckers Course in Florida not long after my father died
and I started a family trucking business in Mexico.
Accommodation Blocks - Amal, Cyrenaica, Libya
Teknica - Veb Oil Operations - Tripoli, Libya 2001-04 |
Warehouse Gani - Fezzan,
Libya |
In July 2001 I was back to Libya with Teknica again on Veba oil
operations, as a project engineer on modifications and rectifications of
oil and gas field infrastructure in Ras Lanuf on the coast, and Ghani
Amal and Tibisti deep in the desert. I lived in a rented flat in Tripoli
and did the hash house harriers on Fridays when in town. I met my old
boss from Brown & Root RASCO days, who had risen from manager of
RASCO projects to deputy head of the Libyan National Oil Corporation. I
was still an expat Project Engineer but I earned more than he did. I
stayed with Veba Oil until May 2004.
I was offered a Contracts Administrator’s position on the Jubail
Industrial City, which Bechtel was running for the Saudi Government. US$
12,000 per month, vehicle, flat, six months on two weeks off, plus
business trips and a Saudi Multiple exit re-entry visa. I escaped every
Thursday afternoon for the British Club in Bahrain, returning in time to
start work on Saturdays. The work I was engaged in was around the
engineering and procurement of large diameter pipes, valves and pumping
systems. I visited factories in Korea, Japan and France, expenses paid
on the company. All good things come to an end - I stayed with them for
two years, until June 2006.
Bechtel Corporation - Saudi Royal
Commission - 108 inch Sea Water Transportation Lines - Jubail
Eastern Province, Saudi Arabia 2004-2006
I had flown to Amman in Jordan for interview with Brown & Root a
couple of weeks before my second year with Bechtel finished. They wanted
me for Phase IV on design checking for the Ghadamas to Azzawiya
pipeline. Roughly an eighteen month contract. When I landed at Tripoli I
was met by Ken McGinley, who I had worked with at Ras Lanuf when he
worked for RASCO. I had forwarded his CV to Brown & Root in 1987 and
he had been with them in Libya ever since. Construction had started
ahead of design and I had a lot of catching up to do. Fortunately most
of the structures were standard repeats of the previous phases of the
GMMR. But there was a mountainous stretch across Garb Nazariyah with
requirements for more pumping facilities. By November 2008 the design
was running down. I went home to Mexico.
Kellogg Brown & Root – Great Man
Made River Phase IV Ghadamas to Azzawiya - Fezzan and Tripolitania
Libya 2006-2008
In March 2009, an American agency contacted me about an American Aid job
for a large school in Nigeria. They said that Jagal, the Nigerian
company handling the school, also had large fabrication yard facilities
for the offshore oil industry and they would like to talk to me. I was
naturally wary of the words 'Nigeria' and 'company' in the same
sentence.
American International School - Morning Muster
Jagal Lagos Nigeria 2009 - 2011
|
Shell Drilling Rig Helicopter Deck
|
I was pleasantly surprised and they made me a good offer for work on the
New American International School, to be built on reclaimed land owned
within the Twin Lakes project of Chevron Oil. Exxon Mobil and Shell also
had interests in the project. I was told that I would also be required
for oil industry works on Snake Island, owned by Jagal. I mobilised to
Lagos in April 2009, just in time for the rain season and spent a very
pleasant two years alternating between design and construction.
When I was paid off after designing and fabricating a helicopter landing
pad for an oil rig, at the end of 2011 I was introduced to Field
Offshore Design Engineering. They hired me as construction manager for
work in Delta State on an early production facility, a seventy kilometre
pipeline, wet gas receiving facilities and an LPG & Propane tank
storage and loading facility.
Pan Ocean Oil Company - LPG & Propane Tanks
Ovade Ogharefe, Delta State, Nigeria
|
Pan Ocean Oil Company - Early Production Facility
Owa Alidinma, Delta State, Nigeria
|
I hardly noticed that I had reached retirement age three years ago. I
have carried on working.
And now the part everybody has been waiting for.
Conclusions ...
Will I ever retire? Possibly in a few more years, but why
swop something you enjoy doing for something you may not live to regret.
Besides I am funding my son through college.
Regrets. Too much time on the Air Cadets and too little study at
school.
Aims and ambitions. I have already parachuted and done a bungee
jump. When I do have more time and we have finished processing our Green
Card for the United States, I will get my flying licence back.